{"id":344,"date":"2019-01-31T09:15:21","date_gmt":"2019-01-31T09:15:21","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/?p=344"},"modified":"2021-03-08T12:46:00","modified_gmt":"2021-03-08T12:46:00","slug":"a-cripta","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/en\/a-cripta\/","title":{"rendered":"The Crypt (plus a bonus!)"},"content":{"rendered":"<blockquote><p><span style=\"color: #12a0d7;\"><em><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">I\u2019d always been fascinated with death; not that I would ever understand <\/span><b>why<\/b><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> people die. I\u2019d lost some important people in my life, but to me, still, death was a totally unnecessary, horrible, horrible thing. \u201cWhy had they gone and died on me?\u201d was something I\u2019d asked myself too many times. Yet, death fascinated me, so when Fabri told me the story of a church in Via dei Tribunali, I knew I\u2019d have to visit it. I just thought I\u2019d be visiting it with him\u2026 The church had a name that was a mouthful, but I loved saying it, attempting an Italian accent: Santa Maria delle Anime del Purgatorio ad Arco.<\/span><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #12a0d7;\"><em><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">When I walked past this church for the first time, the day he brought me to the Napoli Sotterranea, and read the tourist sign at the front, I had goose bumps. He had laughed, held me, and helped me read the sign in Italian. According to the sign, the church had been built on two levels, to represent the two worlds: the first level represented the earthly and spiritual dimension; the lower level, a cold and spooky concrete crypt, represented the purgatory. He\u2019d  told me that the church had been built and used clandestinely by Catholic believers who would \u201cadopt\u201d a skull to take care of, and with their prayers, they\u2019d help the dead get their souls free from the fire of Purgatory and ascend to Heaven. How noble and kind, I had thought.\u201d ~ Carolina, in Loveandpizza.it - Chapter 42<\/span><\/em><\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><span style=\"color: #12a0d7;\">(***)<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Since the first time I went to Napoli, when my husband and I moved there to work, I had wanted to visit this church. It is really a mouthful of a name: Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Anime del Purgatorio ad Arco, which means Church of Saint Mary of the Souls of Purgatory (ad Arco). Not only the name is long enough for you to play tongue twister in Italian, the fact that there is a bronze skull right at the bottom of the church\u2019s entrance steps always drew me to it.<\/span><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_355\" style=\"width: 810px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-355\" class=\"wp-image-355\" src=\"https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/DSC_0455-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-355\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bronze skull at the foot of the stairs at the entrance (photo from personal album)<\/p><\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Like Carolina, I\u2019ve always been fascinated with death; not in the morbid sense, if you know what I mean, but in all matters of what happens when we die. Out of laziness, I guess, or just having taken for granted that I\u2019d have plenty of time to visit the church, I\u2019d never really looked into what church that was. I\u2019d read in our guide that there was a crypt, but that was all I knew. Funny, during the nine months we lived there, every time we went past to visit, it was closed.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">It was only 3 years later, when I went back there to research for Loveandpizza.it, that I got to visit it. Like a good tourist, this time I had read about it on the Internet, and I knew exactly what to expect. As I waited for the tour guide, a young woman who I imagine was a university student, I walked around the small church, reading every single sign there was, and squeezing my hands together in anticipation. An important part of the novel was going to be written that night.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">And it was just like that ... And I typed for hours in my room at the home of a real Neapolitan woman, my hostess for those two weeks of discovery. Pinned to my laptop screen, surrounded by explanatory leaflets, researching in depth about paintings and sculptures, reviewing the photos I had taken that afternoon, and remembering (and feeling all over again) every goosebump I had while listening to the guides' stories, I lost myself in the words and gave \"life\" to Lucia, who, with her infectious and youthful laughter and crazy plans, would help Carolina regain her love. (uh-oh spoiler alert!)<\/span><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\t\t<style type=\"text\/css\">\n\t\t\t#gallery-1 {\n\t\t\t\tmargin: auto;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t#gallery-1 .gallery-item {\n\t\t\t\tfloat: left;\n\t\t\t\tmargin-top: 10px;\n\t\t\t\ttext-align: center;\n\t\t\t\twidth: 50%;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t#gallery-1 img {\n\t\t\t\tborder: 2px solid #cfcfcf;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t#gallery-1 .gallery-caption {\n\t\t\t\tmargin-left: 0;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t\/* see gallery_shortcode() in wp-includes\/media.php *\/\n\t\t<\/style>\n\t\t<div id='gallery-1' class='gallery galleryid-344 gallery-columns-2 gallery-size-full'><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/4.-303631_10150876344803721_501054838_n.jpg'><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"720\" height=\"960\" src=\"https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/4.-303631_10150876344803721_501054838_n.jpg\" class=\"attachment-full size-full\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/4.-303631_10150876344803721_501054838_n.jpg 720w, https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/4.-303631_10150876344803721_501054838_n-600x800.jpg 600w, https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/4.-303631_10150876344803721_501054838_n-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 720px) 100vw, 720px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/9.-579288_10150876343448721_468505631_n.jpg'><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"720\" height=\"960\" src=\"https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/9.-579288_10150876343448721_468505631_n.jpg\" class=\"attachment-full size-full\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/9.-579288_10150876343448721_468505631_n.jpg 720w, https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/9.-579288_10150876343448721_468505631_n-600x800.jpg 600w, https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/9.-579288_10150876343448721_468505631_n-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 720px) 100vw, 720px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><br style=\"clear: both\" \/><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/5.-537482_10150876344523721_1486502381_n.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"720\" height=\"960\" src=\"https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/5.-537482_10150876344523721_1486502381_n.jpg\" class=\"attachment-full size-full\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/5.-537482_10150876344523721_1486502381_n.jpg 720w, https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/5.-537482_10150876344523721_1486502381_n-600x800.jpg 600w, https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/5.-537482_10150876344523721_1486502381_n-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 720px) 100vw, 720px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/6.-599406_10150876344128721_1642106452_n.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"720\" height=\"960\" src=\"https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/6.-599406_10150876344128721_1642106452_n.jpg\" class=\"attachment-full size-full\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/6.-599406_10150876344128721_1642106452_n.jpg 720w, https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/6.-599406_10150876344128721_1642106452_n-600x800.jpg 600w, https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/6.-599406_10150876344128721_1642106452_n-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 720px) 100vw, 720px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt><\/dl><br style=\"clear: both\" \/>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><em><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">(from left to right, above: the skull that sweats and \u201cThe Captain\u201d; below: the skull of Lucia, with letters, flowers and photos brought by devotees. Photos from personal album)<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_673\" style=\"width: 810px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.purgatorioadarco.it\/en\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-673\" class=\"wp-image-673 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/2.png\" alt=\"A Cripta - Loveandpizza.it - Daniela Pesconi-Arthur\" width=\"800\" height=\"800\" srcset=\"https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/2.png 800w, https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/2-300x300.png 300w, https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/2-150x150.png 150w, https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/2-768x768.png 768w, https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/2-12x12.png 12w, https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/2-600x600.png 600w, https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/2-100x100.png 100w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-673\" class=\"wp-caption-text translation-block\">On the left:: my sister, C<span style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u00ed<\/span>ntia, who inspired the character of Carolina, and the bronze skull; top right: winged skulls, by Dionisio Lazzari; bottom right: \u201cVirgin helps souls in Purgatory\u201d, by Massimo Stanzione, 1638 (Photos from personal album)<\/p><\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div style=\"width: 1280px;\" class=\"wp-video\"><video class=\"wp-video-shortcode\" id=\"video-344-1\" width=\"1280\" height=\"542\" preload=\"metadata\" controls=\"controls\"><source type=\"video\/mp4\" src=\"https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/Purgatorio_ad_arco.mp4?_=1\" \/><a href=\"https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/Purgatorio_ad_arco.mp4\">https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/Purgatorio_ad_arco.mp4<\/a><\/video><\/div>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Video and more information about the church (in Italian and English):<\/span> :<span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\"> <a href=\"https:\/\/www.purgatorioadarco.it\/en\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/www.purgatorioadarco.it\/en\/\u00a0<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Sempre fui fascinada pela morte; n\u00e3o que eu entendesse por que as pessoas morrem. Eu tinha perdido algumas pessoas importantes na minha vida, mas para mim, ainda assim, a morte era uma coisa totalmente desnecess\u00e1ria, horr\u00edvel, horr\u00edvel, e\u00a0 &#8220;Por que eles tinham de morrer?&#8221; era algo que eu sempre me perguntava. No entanto, a morte&hellip;<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":361,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"_genesis_hide_title":false,"_genesis_hide_breadcrumbs":false,"_genesis_hide_singular_image":false,"_genesis_hide_footer_widgets":false,"_genesis_custom_body_class":"","_genesis_custom_post_class":"","_genesis_layout":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[2,3],"tags":[38,37,36],"class_list":{"0":"post-344","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-loveandpizza","8":"category-napoli-dicas-de-viagem","9":"tag-dicas-de-passeio-em-napoli","10":"tag-igrejas-de-napoli","11":"tag-trechos-de-loveandpizza-it","12":"entry"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/344","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=344"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/344\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":741,"href":"https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/344\/revisions\/741"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/361"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=344"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=344"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/loveandpizza.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=344"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}